Dear friends. We've just finished the last cycling adventure of the summer, cycling in Provence, France. It culminated in an ascent of Mount Ventoux, a legendary climb from the Tour de France.
I hasten to add I was on an ebike, a great enabler to help us achieve our dreams.
This post is specifically about the cycling trip. I'll be covering the sightseeing in my review of September.
We went with Peak Tours, whose guided bike tours feature 2 vans and 3 guides. Bags are transferred between hotels on one of the vans. The other is used for supporting each ride with refreshments, brew stops and occasional lunches. A guide is on a bike each day to solve any issues which may arise. We went under our own steam, this post is not sponsored or affiliated with Peak Tours.
Here's my daily account of our week in Provence.
Day 1: Travel to Provence
We were up early for the usual pre-holiday preps. Unfortunately our flight to Marseille was delayed by an hour. We shared a minibus to our first destination, Arles, with three others on the same trip. We got to the hotel 5 mins before the first briefing at 7pm. Then we set off on a quick walk through the pretty streets of Arles for a group dinner. There are 23 cyclists on the trip, ages ranging from 32 to 70s.
Cycling Day 1: Arles to Avignon, 68 miles (109 km)
Slept very badly, score of 9! Set off at 9, which was commendably early given that many in the group had hired bikes and needed to do some fettling.
A group picture was taken in front of the ancient Forum. I was a little nervous, as always. I don't like the starts, when the group sets off together. Fortunately we soon spread out. There are only 3 ebikes on this trip and the other cyclists are all very strong.
A fairly easy ride out of Arles followed a steeper ride through a gorge in the morning, followed by a brew stop and rapid descent.
I'm not too keen on a very steep descent with bends, as this was, because my ebike is quite heavy and not very nimble to manoeuvre. I am slow and cautious on the descents.
Lunch was in a cafe, pre-paid by the tour company. There weren't many choices on the menu: a ham salad, squid or a burger. I went for the burger which was ok but a heavier choice (with chips, groan) then I would normally make at lunchtime.
The afternoon was hard. Mostly flat, but it was very hot, 30 degrees (80 Fahrenheit). We soon finished our water and had forgotten to top up our sun cream. School boy errors. We saw a spectacular Roman aqueduct.
We stayed in a historic looking hotel in the elegant town of Avignon for the next two nights. There was a proper bike shed with power. Free evening. We went to a place round the corner.
Cycling Day Two: Loop Ride, Avignon, 38 Miles (61 km)
Slept better, although watch advises a rest day.
We had the choice of two rides today. Most chose the shorter ride, including us. It took us through the wine region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Most of the grapes have been harvested but we saw a few vines that still had their fruit. It was another hot day. J and I got back to Avignon at lunch time and had a Croque Monsieur in the busy square. Then we did some sight seeing. Below: this bridge was OK (ish!).
Cycling Day 3: Avignon to Apt, 53 miles / 85km
The scenery is seriously beautiful as we get higher up in Provence. Passed through some beautiful villages carved into the hills. Had a spectacular picnic lunch on the plateau after the longest climb. There was even an awning and chairs. There were salads, quiches, baguettes and different breads, cheese, dips and the most amazing selection of French patisserie.
We arrived too early to check-in at Apt (Aptica Julia in Roman times), a small and sleepy town. We killed time with a drink and ice cream.
Behind the secure gate and walls of our hotel was a courtyard garden and swimming pool. The bikes were stored here and there was even a power cable outside for the ebikes. Fortunately there's no chance of rain.
Our room is spectacular! It's huge, with a four poster bed, day bed, desk, stereo, coffee machine and large bathroom.
I scouted a very good restaurant, L'Intramuros, and six of us dined there. I had lapin - rabbit - with a vegetable parcel and lentils followed by a huge rum baba. The bistro has over 100 types of rum.
Cycling Day 4: Loop of Apt, 44 miles
Did a shorter route today. It suits me very well to follow a challenging day with an easier ride. Came back along a long cycle path and former railway line. Had lunch in a square, salad with burrata. Finally found a pharmacy that was open so I could buy shampoo. Spent the afternoon reading. The hotel always hosts a dinner for Peak Tours guests and it was fun with the staff coming out to applause.
Cycling Day 5: Apt to Sault, 51 miles / 82km
Been dreading this ride as it's very hilly. Nearly 5000 ft of ascent to Sault from Apt. The first stretch of ascent was tough. It was quite gradual which is less optimal on my ebike than a steep ascent. There's a misnomer that you flick your bike into turbo and ride all day without making any effort. The reality is, if it's a long or very hilly ride, you have to manage the battery. To save turbo for the tough sections I choose to ride on a lower power which means I'm working quite hard.
We had a delicious lunch at a bistro called Les P'tits Bonheurs: hake with vegetables and lentils, below.
We then embarked on the challenging Gorge de la Nesque climb. It's over 10 miles and has 4 tunnels cut into the stone of the ravine. Spectacular views, if you were looking. I wasn't!
Reached Sault by 3.15. Quaint narrow streets, very quiet. Most of the houses seem empty. Went for an ice cream. Our hotel, Hotel Nesque, was a former convent. There's a collection of bike memorabilia in the chapel including a wooden bike from the 1930s that did the Tour de France.
We have seen Ventoux in the distance throughout the holiday. Now it's a brooding presence.
I found a local restaurant that had a cyclists' menu, in addition to normal bistro fare. 10 of us went there. Another fun evening.
Cycling Day 6: Ventoux Loops, long 48m /77km, short 32m/ 52km
- Height: 1,910 m (6,270 ft)
- The first recorded ascent was by the 14th‑century French scholastic philosopher Jean Buridan who is recorded climbing Mont Ventoux before 1334 while on his way to the papal court in Avignon "in order to make some meteorological observations"
- The fastest recorded ascent of Mont Ventoux from Bédoin (21.5 km) is 54 minutes and 31 seconds, set by Tadej Pogačar during Stage 16 of the 2025 Tour de France.
- The fastest known time recorded on Strava is for cycling up Mont Ventoux from Sault is 57 minutes and 3 seconds.
We put on Peak Tours jerseys for a group photo before we set off. I kept mine on.
Left at 9.15 on the shorter loop from Sault. The ascent started immediately. I had range anxiety which I needn't have had, because I ended the day with 40% of the battery left. Below: on our way
Approximately three quarters into the ride there's a famous cafe, Chalet Reynard. We had a brew stop there (the toilettes are unspeakable!). Then the final push. Ventoux has a very cheeky section right at the end, but it was no challenge for the turbo setting on my ebike. We did it!
Initially it was quiet on the top. Then more and more people began arriving from the north and south approaches. We were followed very quickly by father and son team John and Will from Seattle, who were amazingly strong riders.
The top of Ventoux has a gift shop and a small cafe. The rest of it looks like a lunar landscape.
I realised I couldn't face the first bit of sharp descent as I would be too exposed to the sheer drop on the right hand side. I took photos on the top until guide Fran was able to drop me off at Chalet Reynard, where John was with the others. Had a baguette. Then a very nice descent, motor off, before the steep ride into Sault. We had a lovely organised dinner with a few speeches to start. We thanked our guides for an outstanding trip. I had my first glass of wine!
All in all: we enjoyed fabulous weather every day of the trip and what spectacular scenery we saw! I managed to overcome my fear of heights to handle the Gorge de la Nesque and Ventoux, even if the first few miles of descent from Ventoux were too much for me. The people on the tour were brilliant, a very supportive and fun group, and the guides were superb.
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