Dear friends. I wasn't going to publish a review this month because I've already written about our 2 week cycling holiday. But I realised I could still provide my usual daily account as I didn't describe the holiday day-by-day, and still have lots of unused photos. Plus we have a new kitchen! Above: my colourful washing line after returning from holiday.
Thurs May 1
Sunny and v hot. Walked to the gym for weights and Pilates. Got bus to Sainsbury's to get curry for dinner.
Fri May 2
Sunny. Did ironing, then went to buy paint for kitchen. Finished emptying out the kitchen prior to the new installation while we're away. Also finished packing for holiday. Booked for author Ian McEwan event in September. He has a new book out then.
Sat May 3
On our way to Scotland for 2 weeks. Left at 6am to try to avoid the bank holiday traffic, I had a fair few chores re kitchen to complete first. Made good time. It's 421 miles (677 km) to Balloch, near Glasgow. I drove the 2nd leg to Gretna Green services where we did a second charge and had a sandwich. Got to Balloch and our guest house at 3pm, a bit early, so did walk and booked a place for dinner. Weather good! Dinner not so good. Very tough chicken. Below: memorial locks and rosettes on Balloch bridge.
Sunday May 4
Met up with the others in our Hebridean Islands cycling tour in Balloch car park. We then had a 2 hour road transfer to Oban. There are 2 other women in the group. We stopped en route for coffee. Bought a pricey bar of genuine Dubai chocolate.
When we got to Oban, we learned the ferry had been cancelled. The tour guides sorted another plan with the ticket office: a ferry to Barra and then another to Eriskay, near South Uist. Meanwhile I had one of the best cappuccinos ever at the terminal's coffee shop (Argyll Roasters).
Finally set off on the 6 hour journey to Barra. Had a toasted panini on board. At Barra 2 taxis and the van took us to the other side of the island where we waited a while for the next ferry to Eriskay. This was a shorter trip, 40 mins. By now we'd all had chance to get to know each other. The hotel manageress came to pick up 4 in her car. The rest travelled in the van.
Dinner was pushed back to 8.30. Had melon/parma ham and lamb shank with mash potatoes.
Below: arriving at Barra.
Monday 5 May
A blue sky day for our first day's cycling- back on Barra. This time we cycled to the ferry (10 miles, 16km). It was a good chance to get used to the ebike I'd hired for 2 weeks.
Had a lovely day on Barra. Saw a plane land and then take off again on the unique beach runway. Had coffee at the airport. Stunning beaches. Enjoyed our picnic lunch on Vatersay, a separate island connected by a causeway.
We then posed by the official Hebridean Way marker. Ferry back to Barra and 2nd night at same hotel. Had haggis and black pudding followed by beef cheeks.
Tuesday 6 May
Another 4 island day, 64 miles: South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay and North Uist, ending up at Lochmaddy. Overcast and a bit chilly. The Uists were rather bleak, hardly any trees. Benbecula, in the middle, had more greenery and houses. Popped in at N Uist distillery. Lunch picnic was outside a village hall.
On our way to tonight's accommodation J and I overshot the hotel so had to circle back. The hotel was modern and welcoming. We immediately had a dirty beer (J) and a hot choc (me) on arrival. (This is cyclists' speak for a drink while still in cycling gear). For dinner had fish n chips.
Below: distinctive crofts on South Uist.
Weds 7 May
3 island day, N Uist, Berneray, Harris, a total of 47 miles (75km) cycling to Tarbert on Harris. Early start to get ferry to Harris. We cycled 10 miles to the ferry terminal. Overcast again. Nicer ferry, 40 mins journey, good view from lounge. Quite a complicated route to avoid tiny land masses as we approached Harris.
Once there we stopped at a community hub but there was no cafe so we moved on. Saw some amazing white sand beaches. Lunch was near a beach. 2 Highland coos were grazing next to the car park. A very exhilarating afternoon's cycling along the Golden Road. Lots of ascent and then descent. I was hurtling along.
When we got to Tarbert Dorothy and I managed to slip into a tweed shop. Bought a red bag. Dinner, in the Harris Hotel, was in their pizza cafe. Early night. Managed a reasonable sleep for 1st time. Photo below taken with J's drone.
Thurs 8 May
45 miles today to the isolated Dune Braes hotel at Callanish, Lewis. Blue sky. Had a very steep ascent right away. Lunch stop by a loch. Lewis has Gaelic as primary language on signs, and the terrain is more like Uist. Harris is greener.
Stopped at the Neolithic Stones of Callanish. I'm intrigued by the mystery around the various stone sites - Stonehenge, Meg and daughters, Callanish. No-one knows their exact purpose.
Started 2 night stay at the hotel, in the middle of nowhere. Had veg soup and crispy chicken in a wrap with a jacket potato. Sunny, so able to dry tomorrow's cycling outfit in the bedroom window. Got here quite early which made a change.
Friday 9 May
A more cultural day seeing Neolithic sites and social history. It's the last day of the Hebridean holiday. We finish at Butt of Lewis.
After just 1 mile from the hotel we stopped at Carloway Broch. I loved this. Then went to the nearby blackhouse site. It was a short day in terms of mileage so we stopped at a few other historic sites. One was closed. It was quite windy and cold. Used the loos at a community centre. Below: recreation of a moor shieling. Transhumance was practised in the Outer Hebrides until the 1950s, or in some cases the 1960s, with livestock being taken to moorland shielings like this.
Got to our beach lunch location at 1.30. Sheltered behind the van to stay out of the wind. After lunch it was a fairly easy 15 miles to the finish at Butt of Lewis with the wind behind us. After taking lots of photos a taxi and the van took us back to Callanish. Had garlic mushrooms, fish n chips and ginger creme caramel. In bed early, we have a 4.30am start.
Sat 10 May
Wasn't too cold when we got up at 4.30am. Arrived at Stornoway 6.15 after seeing deer on the way. I had been hoping to see the UK's largest Co-Op, but it wasn't open. Thrilled to see one our fery was one of Caledonian McBrayne's two new ships, Loch Seaforth. Alec, our tour leader, bought us breakfast. We sat in the very comfortable observation lounge.
I collected money from everyone to thank the guides. One of the guys had bought a card. This group bonded very nicely. We arrived at Ullapool some time around 9. Five of us went by mini van to Balloch, the rest travelled in the van. It was a long drive. Slept a little. We stopped for refreshments at Aviemore. Arrived in Balloch just before 4. We're staying at the same guest house as last week. Three others who also decided to stay overnight came out with us for a curry. Tomorrow they will go home and we'll start the second holiday with new people.
Sunday May 11
Sunny. We were due to meet the new group at 11.30 so we went for a walk in Balloch country park before returning to the car park for the introductions. This second week will see us cycling from Campbeltown to Inverness.
We arrived in Campbeltown around 4pm. It's a lovely hotel with views of loch. During the war it became a matenity home, and there's a book in reception signed by people who were born there.
There are 10 riders, 2 ebikes (ours), 2 women, 4 men called John. Dinner was interesting. It started OK but we didn't get the main until 9.30, and one unlucky chap didn't get his at all and went to bed without. I had a king prawn starter and roast turkey.
Monday May 12
And we're off! Sunny, blue sky. Coastal ride, country roads, hilly. Tea break at 10 in Saddell. Saw an Anthony Gormley statue in Saddell Bay. We did an additional 6 miles going to a castle dating from the 1200s, which was well worth a visit.
The final slog to tonight's hotel was hard work on a busy A road with lorries overtaking. Arrived at Tarbert (there are three places called Tarbert in Scotland). Had dinner in a room at the back, a ham hock starter and smoked peat haddock risotto.
Tues May 13
Sunny and hot, 24 degrees! Saw lovely bluebell verges on the first few miles. Not quite as hilly as yesterday. Finished early at 2.30. We were in a place with very few hotels, shops or places to eat. The hotel, Empire Travel Lodge, used to be a cinema called the Empire. It's privately owned, nothing to do with the Travel Lodge chain. We all went to a small Indian restaurant for dinner. In bed early.
Weds May 14
Sunny. Quite a challenging day's cycling, lots of hills, to Connel. Accommodation had lovely views of loch. Burger for dinner followed by Eton mess.
Thurs May 15
Sunny. A gentle day's cycling to Fort William, starting with a canal and then cycle paths on disused railway tracks. A stretch of pavement for cyclists on a busy A road was a poor experience: not very wide and residents' hedges threatened us with disaster. Someone unhelpfully shouted from a car that we should "get off the pavement," although it's officially designated as a shared use path.
Lunch was on the drive of a house after the kind owner saw the guide having problems finding a space in the public car park. She even allowed us to use the loo. Her son came out to chat.
We used two ferries today, the 5 min Corran ferry for cars and foot passengers, and a small ferry for cyclists and foot passengers, which made an additional crossing just for us.
The hotel in Fort William seemed luxurious to start with but unfortunately the huge TV didn't work (the remote only had one battery) and nor did the aircon, which I'd been very excited about. The WiFi was unsecured so I wouldn't use it. My breakfast of Eggs Benedict was good. Dinner was caprese salad with butter beans, salmon with veg (not v good) and a raspberry cheesecake.
Fri May 16
Bit of an upset stomach. Sunny again. Shortish 33 miler. We're finally on the Caledonian canal. Saw the impressive Neptune's Ladder locks. Route included some forest trails with loose gravel on one stretch. This was to avoid a section of road that's closed. There were some twisty switchbacks. Lunch was at a Le Boat place next to a lock. The only loos were locked but a kind couple said they were key holders and let me and Anne use them.
We arrived in Port Augustus, home of Loch Ness, around 3pm. Dinner was upstairs at The Lock pub. Had mac cheese. Nearly everything seemed to have a bed of rocket (my bete noire), but I managed to swerve it.
Returning to our guest house we saw a rabbit on the front lawn and 2 ducks at the back. The guest house is a ghost ship: there was no-one there when we arrived and the guide used a code to let us in.
Sat May 17
Last day of cycling today. A member of staff materialised to help with breakfast, which was continental. First time we haven't had hot choices. However, because we were immediately doing a steep climb, Nick ordered bacon rolls from a different vendor which we'd have when we arrived at the top as our first brew stop.
The range in question was Glendoe, reaching 1200 ft. John and I inevitably got there first and had our bacon rolls before the others started arriving. We took pics of them. We then rode past the Falls of Foyer.
The picnic was in an idyllic spot by a loch with benches.
We came into Inverness a different, quieter way than when we did Lejog. Arrived at 3.30. We were staying in another ghost hotel. This one had a disused dining room. John and I were flabbergasted to see our huge room with two single beds and a double. Not to mention a humongous TV.
Dinner was a short walk away at Encore, the same place we dined at during Lejog. I had whisky cured salmon, beef burger and cranachan cheesecake. I love cranachan and this was the first time I'd seen it on the menu in 2 weeks.
Sunday May 18
Sunny, breezy. We began two days of travel to get home. First of all, breakfast in a buzzy Inverness cafe. I had avocado on toast with scrambled egg. There was a long queue of people wanting to order.
We then got into a taxi or the van for the drive back to Balloch. We stopped at House of Bruar for refreshments, which I was very excited about, but sadly just for 15 mins to grab a coffee. It was my sort of place!
Back in Balloch by 2 (Groundhog Day!). Went for walk as we couldn't check in (same B&B) until 4. Had dinner at the Tullie Inn, lamb shank with mash and veg, very good.
Monday May 19
Sunny and likely to stay like this for next few days. We left b&b at 9.30. John drove initially: we had to get a charge for the car battery ASAP as the charger in Balloch car park wasn't working.
I drove from Gretna Green services to Blyth. Long journey. Home at 6.30.
The kitchen and house looked a bit worse than I was expecting. There's no sink or water in the kitchen, no worktops and the appliances aren't connected to power. The new units and wooden floor are installed but covered in plastic so I can't see them yet. I managed to pull together a salad for dinner based on what I bought at M&S today.
Was pleased I didn't miss the big May display from the roses.
Tues 20 May
Sunny. Did a forest walk on my own. Fitters at work all day. Published books post. Washing dishes is now being done in the bath using a bowl and an old dish drainer I rescued.
Weds 21 May
Did a walk with J. Still sunny. Kitchen fitter had gone for day when we got back. Started putting stuff in the new cupboards. Did lots of washing (the washing machine and fridge in the conservatory are working as normal). Cleaned bathroom and the new wooden floors. Dead headed roses which took around an hour. J got fish n chips for him. I had a salad. Spurs won the Europa league final.
Thurs May 22
Overcast, much cooler. No fitters today.
Bad news, the worktops won't be fitted until Sat. We'd been expecting it to be Friday. Have a cold and didn't feel up to exercise. Had dinner at King's Head. Better than expected. Caesar salad.
Fri May 23
Cooler. Went to the gym for weights, Pilates. Then Sainsbury's to get a curry. Electrician was round, can now use oven, hooray. Seems very complicated. Clarkson's Farm is back. Unfortunately binge watched 2 episodes!
Sat May 24
Been raining. Cooler. We went out to get coffee prior to worktops being delivered and installed. Wrist v painful and feel a bit stressed. House still seems so untidy and black bin isn't emptied for nearly 2 weeks. Worktops look great but not usable until Monday as the fixative needs to set.
Used the oven for the first time. Connected it to the wi-fi and an app (who knew?!).
Sunday May 25
Sunny intervals, bit windy. Surprised John by suggesting a bike ride and booking a pub lunch,. We cycled over to the Lee Valley. Lunch at King's Head, roast beef, v nice. Did ironing. Kitchen will hopefully be finished tomorrow, yay!
Monday May 26
Bank holiday. Sunny intervals, windy. The guys were here from 9 to 3 to install the teal splashbacks and other tasks. Plumber also turned up: now have a working sink and water! However, the final sockets and power for the new dishwasher and fridge will be sorted tomorrow. I'd booked a food delivery for early tomorrow but postponed it until Weds as I want to make sure the second fridge is operational.
Did a forest walk.
Tuesday May 27
The kitchen is finished. Worked hard to move everything into it. Well not everything. There's a lot to go to the recycling centre.
Wednesday May 28
Had my favourite poached eggs on toast breakfast for the first time since before the holiday. I was able to use the new induction hob. It's the little things! John's brother came round to help saw the handlebars of his new bike. Went to the recycling centre with a car load, which was very satisfying. Quite a lot for their shop.
Went for a forest walk. Didn't see the swans with their cygnets but saw plenty of geese at Connaught Water.
Thursday May 29
Sunny intervals. Walked to gym for weights and Pilates. In the evening met up with friends for a fun dinner at Bill's in Victoria.
Friday May 30
Beautiful sunny day. Cycled over to Lee Valley Country Park. Stopped at the pretty rose garden at Waltham Abbey on the way. At the country park we used some deserted trails. Had to cycle around two geese who were protecting their one gosling. They were hissing at us.
A sunny day for the Kettlewell Colour Club event I'd organised: seeing the David Hockney immersive experience at Lightroom followed by lunch. 14 came. It was a lovely outing. My second time seeing the Hockney. I wore a new top that had fortuitously been delivered in the morning! Picked up salad bits for dinner and J was appreciative as he'd been to a BBQ. Below: most of today's group.
WHAT WE'VE BEEN WATCHING
Not so much this month because of being away for 2 weeks.
Clarkson's Farm, series 4 (Prime)
Love this and looked forward to the new series. If you've avoided it because youre not keen on Clarkson, you'll find he's not so bad. There's humour but also insights into the plight of British farmers. In this series Clarkson opens a restaurant that will sell the produce from his farm and other local farmers.
Poker Face (Sky, Now)
A very strong debut episode with guest star Adrien Brody which sets the scene. Charlie is working in a casino and living in a trailer. But the casino's new owner knows her secret: she has an exceptional ability to detect lies. For a time she travelled extensively, winning large sums gambling. But now she is forced to flee. Episode 2 saw her putting her skill to good use to ensure a female trucker she meets on the way is cleared after being wrongly arrested for murder.
Sirens (Netflix)
Hmm. This is one of those glossy productions with lots of stars (usually Nicole Kidman, but Julianne Moore and Kevin Bacon in this instance) that promise a lot but deliver very little. Passes the time.
Reuben: Life in the Dales (5)
This is our current amuse bouche. Reuben is one of the 9 children of "Yorkshire Shepherdess" and husband Amanda and Clive Owen. Reuben has his own heavy plant machinery business. The series follows his assignments, helped by a cheerful bunch of friends plus brothers Sid and Miles.
On the Watch List
F1 Academy (Netflix)
And Just like That (Now)
The Last Anniversary, Australian drama (BBC IPlayer)
Dept Q (Netflix)
Well done if you read to the end. Do share your TV and books recommendations. My May books selection is here. Check out my overview to the cycling holiday Hebridean Way and Caledonian Way.
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